Below is a video on How Fix A Shaking Maytag Performa Washer
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Today we will show you the steps to fix a Maytag Performa top load washer that shakes around on spin cycle. There are two things that could cause the washer to shake around on spin cycle if you already ensured the load of clothes is balanced within the drum. The First thing you will want to check is the snubber ring. This is a round plastic piece that goes between the washer tub assembly and the washer base. If you look at the base of the washer and see white plastic filings or the paint off the washer base plate the snubber ring could be the culprit.
The second thing that could cause the washer to shake on spin cycle would be the suspension springs. These over time get fatigued with use and let the drum of the washer move around move freely. They do also break or fail. So it will be easy to spot a broken spring but harder to figure out if they are just worn out.
So to get started we need to unplug the washing machine from the outlet. Once we have the washer unplugged we can grab either a putty knife or flat screwdriver and we’ll use that to press in the two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Slide the putty knife into the gap between the top and the front panel and slightly lift the top cover. Once we have the cover lifted up we can lean it up against the wall or have someone hold it for you. Be sure to move the washer out so that the top cover is leaning against the wall to ensure it doesn’t fall.
Once we have the top cover up we now need to remove the two flat or 5/16 nut driver screws from the top of the front panel so we can remove the front panel. In this case we are going to use a 5/16 nut driver to remove them. With those screws removed we can let the front panel lean forward and then lift up on it removing it from the bottom pins/ hooks and set it aside.
With the front cover removed we’ll need to locate the level indicator hose that goes from the drum to the fill switch behind the control panel. You can locate it by looking in the back left of the machine. You should see the clear plastic hose. You can follow it down where it meets the drum and pull it off and remove it.
Once we have the hose disconnected we now will need to remove the washer motor. To do this we’ll need to just pop the ground wire out of the holder on the splash shield and then grab a 5/16 nut driver and remove the two screws that hold the splash shield to the motor. Next we can grab a ¼ nut driver and remove the ¼ ground screw from the motor bracket. Next we can squeeze the clips on each side of the wiring connector to remove it off the motor.
Next we will need a ⅜ ratchet, 6” extension and a ⅜ socket . We will use them to remove the two ⅜ bolts that hold the washer motor bracket to the washer base. Once we have them both removed we should be able to push the washer motor and bracket towards the center of the washer and tilting it at a 45 degree angle and then lift and remove the motor. We are tipping it so that we can remove the belt and motor at the same time. Saving us from having to tip the washer up and removing the belt separately.
With the motor removed we can now grab a pair of spring pliers or a pair of vise grips. Well snap them onto the top part of the spring so we can lift them up and unhook them from the drum of the washer. Once we have the top part of the spring off we can rotate the spring and remove it from the base plate of the washer. Well repeat those steps to remove the remainder of the springs.
Once we have all the springs removed we can grab a pair of pump pliers/ channel lock pliers. We are going to use them to squeeze the hose clamp on the black hose that is connected to the drum. You will want to get some towels or rags ready as this hose will have water in it. Once we have that hose disconnected from the washer we are now ready to remove the drum assembly. To remove the drum assembly, lift it upwards until the pulley makes it out of the base plate then grab the lower part of the drum and pull it outward through the front cabinet opening.
Once the tub assembly is removed we can flip it over so that the pulley is facing upwards. You notice there are 6 small screws behind the transmission pulley. These screws hold tension on our brake assembly. DO NOT REMOVE ALL 6 AT ONCE ! What we need to do is remove every other one. So it creates a triangle. So well grab the 5/16 nut driver and remove every other one so we remove only 3 of them. Next well grab three 10-24 screws x 1 ¼ long and we’ll start these by hand in the holes where we just removed the stock screws from. Next we can grab a phillips screwdriver and run those new screws half way in or so. Once we have those half way in we can NOW remove the other three original screws.
With those screws removed we can now lift the metal bracket that holds the snubber ring in place. With it lifted we can grab and remove the snubber ring. Once we have the snubber ring removed we can grab a clean rag and clean the area where the snubber ring sits. Once we have it clean we can grab and install the new subber ring. Wiggle it around to make sure it is seated properly where it needs to be. Once installed we can reinstall the 3 factory 5/16 screws in the open holes. We’ll snug them up with the 5/16 nut driver. Then we can grab a phillips screwdriver and remove the longer ones we put in to hold the brake assembly. Once we have those removed we can install the remaining factory screws and also snug them down with the 5/26 nut driver. Well double check that all 6 are nice and tight.
With the 6 screws nice and tight we can grab a rag and clean the base plate where the snubber ring sits. You will want to ensure this area is dry and free from oil. There are some technicians that add a layer or cornstarch to where the snubber ring meets the base plate. For this one we didn’t add any. Once we have that area clean we are ready to slide the tub assembly back into the washer cabinet. To do this we’ll need to lift the top of the tub assembly upwards into the washer cabinet high enough so the pulley can clear the base plate and then lower the pulley down though the base plate.
With the tub assembly reinstalled we can now reconnect the blackdrain hose. Well slide the end onto the nipple of the tub and then use the pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and slide it up to hold the hose to the tub. Once we have the drain hose reconnected we can start to install our new suspension springs. Open the new ones and compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the correct length. I like to start in the back as these are harder to get at and then work my way to the front. I also put all the springs into the base plate and then start hooking them to the tub assembly. You will also want to add some grease to the lower part of the spring where it will come in contact with the base plate.
With all 6 suspension springs reconnected we can reinstall the motor. So well grab it and slide it into the hole within the base plate and reconnect our motor wiring. With the wiring harness connected we can align the ⅜ bolt holes and reinstall the bolts and tight them down with the ⅜ ratchet, 6” extension and ⅜ socket. Once we have those two motor bolts tight we can next reattach the ground wire to the motor bracket and tight the ¼ screw with the nut driver. Next we can grab the splash shield and place it on the motor and reinstall and tighten the two 5/16 nut driver.
Once we have the splash cover reinstalled we can place the front cover on the hooks/ pins on the lower part of the washer cabinet and then tip the top towards the washer cabinet. Once aligned we can reinstall the two 5/16 bolts that hold it in position. Once we have those tightened we can now reconnect the fill switch clear tube to the drum. This is an important step if the hoes is not reconnected the washer will overflow. Once we have that hose reconnected we can now lower the top cover and click it into position. Once we have the top cover closed we can walk the washer away from the wall and lean it against it or have someone hold it for you as we need to reinstall the belt. We opted to install a new belt as it had some glazing/ hot spots, cracks. It was a part # 21352320. We’ll take the belt and start it on the washer pump pulley then onto the motor pulley and then walk the belt onto the transmission pulley.
Once we have the belt reinstalled we can plug the washer in and test it. You can see the difference on this one from before as we removed the front cover to show you. The difference between the worn snubber ring and suspension springs.
So that’s it we have just shown you how to fix a shaking Maytag Performa top load washer.