Below is a video on How To Do A Complete Engine Service On A Hustler Raptor SD
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Today we will be showing you how to do a complete engine service on a Hustler Raptor SD with a 24 hp Kawasaki FR730V engine. We are going to be using this Sterns engine service kit. The part number for the kit will be 785-654.
The first thing you should do when you are going to work on something would be to get it clean. So this one got washed up last night and was left in the garage to dry overnight. Then the next thing we need to do since we are changing the oil is to start the engine and let it run for 2-3 minutes to get the oil warm so it will drain easier..
Now that we have the engine oil warm we can proceed to drain it. Well need to locate the drain plug which is just below the oil fill tube and the oil filter. To drain the oil we are going to need a ½ hose to connect to the drain plug. This ½” pipe helps to keep the oil from getting onto the frame of the mower. Once we have attached the hose to the drain plug nipple we can make sure that the other end of the ½” hose goes into our oil drain bucket. Once we have the other end into or over our drain bucket we can grab a 10mm wrench or a 10mm socket and ratchet and loosen the drain plug screw. Once we have the screw loose the oil should start to flow out and down the tube and into the drain bucket.
Once we have the oil draining we can move onto the air filter. The air filter box is located right at the back top of the engine. There are two lift tabs for the cover. We’ll grab both of them and lift straight up to access the air filter. This one has a thumb tab on the hose clamp so we won’t need any tools to swap out the air filter. Well turn and undo the hose clamp and then lift and wiggle the air filter out. Once we have the old filter removed we can grab our new air filter part # X. Well clean the end on the air inlet tube and air filter housing. With the air inlet tube clean we can install the pre-filter onto the new air filter. Once we have that on we can wiggle the new filter into position and then tighten the hose clamp to seal it into position. Once we have the new filter in we can snap closed the air filter door.
Once we have the air filter replaced we can move onto the spark plugs. This is a twin cylinder so there are two spark plugs. First we need to pull the spark plug boot off. Well just grab it and pull it off making sure to grab the boot and not the wire. With the spark plug boot removed we can grab a 13/16 socket and ⅜ ratchet. Well use them to remove the old plug. Once we have the old plug removed we can grab our new NGK BPR4ES and a spark plug gap tool and set the gap to .30. Once we have the gap set we can proceed to thread the new plug in by hand to ensure we don’t cross thread it. Once we have it in there hand tight we can torque it down to 20lbs.
Torque Specs: Cast Iron: 18-25.3 lb. ft. Aluminum: 18-21.6 lb. ft.
If a torque wrench is unavailable, finger tighten the
spark plug, then use a plug wrench to tighten. 1/2-2/3
turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/12-1/8 turn on plugs with a
With the spark plug torqued down we can reconnect or push our spark plug boot on. With this side done we can repeat the same steps and replace the other spark plug.
Now that we have both spark plugs removed we can move onto replacing the fuel filter. Which is behind the seat and right next to the starter for the engine. To replace this we are going to need a pair of needle nose pliers and a rag to catch the gas that will come out of the fuel filter. Well place the rag under where the fuel filter is located and then squeeze and slide the hose clamps off the fuel filter. Once we have the hose clamps slide out of the way we can grab and twist the fuel lines and slide them off of the old fuel filter. You may want to wear gloves as your hands may come in contact with gas. With the old filter removed we can do the steps in reverse and install the new fuel filter. Well grab the new filter and check which way the arrow is pointing as that is our direction of flow and needs to flow from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. With the arrow the correct way we can slide the lines on and the squeeze and slide the hose clamps back onto the fuel filter to seal the lines to the new fuel filter.
Once we have the fuel filter replaced we can go back to the oil. So we’ll go ahead and close the drain plug and then grab the 10mm socket and ratchet and snug the drain plug up to seal it. Once we have the drain plug tight we can remove the drain hose. Next well grab a rag and place it under the oil filter as there is some oil that will drain out. Next we can grab an oil filter wrench and loosen and remove the old oil filter. With the old oil filter removed we can clean the mating surface with a clean rag. Next we’ll take some new oil and apply a thin film onto the new oil filter gasket. Once we have a thin film on the new oil filter seal we can thread the new oil filter on.
NOTE: The dipstick says” For correct oil level do NOT turn cap on threads”
Once we have it filled to the full mark/ level we are going to start the motor as we need to pressurised the system and fill the oil filter. Once we have run the engine for a bit we’ll let the engine sit for a minute or two and recheck our oil level and re add to get it back to the full mark/ level.
Some other things you will want to do will be to lubricate the moving parts/ pivot points on the mowing deck itself. You will also want to inspect the belts, blades (sharpen/ replace) Check the hydrostatic fluid levels and check to see if you are at the hours where that oil needs to be replaced/ serviced. Then the last thing but also an important step is to add some sort of fuel stabilizer to the fuel to ensure in the spring you’re not dealing with a gummed up carburetor.