Below is a video on how to winterize your RV
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We are going to be showing you on this 2017 Heartland Pioneer RG28. It will be the same steps to winterize your camper/ RV. Although the locations may be different depending on the make and model of your camper/ RV.
The very first thing we’ll need to do is make sure the gray and black water tanks are empty and rinsed out. This should happen at your last campground or camping destination with a sewer hook up.
With the gray and black water holding tanks emptied out we can locate the low point drains. On this RV they are right behind the main door and before the first tire. There normally is a sticker on the side of the RV letting you know where they are.
Once you have located them we can open all three valves. You will have one for the cold supply, hot supply and one for the onboard water storage / holding tank.
With the three valves open we can now go inside the RV / camper and open all of the hot and cold on the faucets, tubs/ showers, any point of use for water, also any outdoor kitchens or faucets.
That will let air into the system and let it siphon down getting as much water out of the system as possible.
Once we have the trailer water draining down and out the low point drains we can now locate the hot water heater as we need to get that draining.
Well unlatch the clip that holds the hot water heater door closed. Then we’ll lower the door down. Next we need to locate the plug/ anode rod.
Next we can grab the appropriate sized socket, extension and ratchet and remove the plug/ anode rod. On this one it’s a plastic plug that has been messed up so we will use some channel lock pliers to remove it. In the spring we will replace it with a new plastic plug.
Once we have the plug removed we can open the pressure relief valve to allow air into the water heater allowing it to drain faster.
While the heater is draining we can locate the water heater within the camper as we need to access the back of the water heater to put it in bypass mode.
For this camper it is located on the front driver’s side of the camper under this front bed. So well flip up and remove the mattress so we can access the compartment where it is.
Next we can open the compartment. On the backside of the water heater you will see three valves. A cold supply going into the water heater. A hot valve where it leaves the water heater. Then a valve and pipe that connects the cold to the hot right before the pipes go into the water heater.
We will close the cold and hot valves and then open the valve in that cross over pipe. That will allow the antifreeze coming in on the cold side to bypass the water heater and go out on the hot side.
Next we can slide the cover back in position and place the mattress back in its position.
With the mattress back in position we can go check to see if the water heater is done draining and the low point drains.
They are so we can reinstall the anode rod / plug back into the water heater a few turns to keep bugs out of it. We can also close the pressure relief valve and the low point drains. We can also close all the faucets as well.
Next we can locate where the 12 volt water pump is located. Normally like this RV/ camper they are under the kitchen sink. On this one we will need to remove the lowest draw. On some it might be behind a panel.
Once we have removed the draws we can see the water pump. Next we will have to close the valve on the cold water supply to the pump. Then we can open the other valve with the 24” white pipe attached.
On some RV/ campers you wont have a teed in suction line you will actually have a short piece of pipe in there. Where you will need to undo a clip on the pump holding that cold supply pipe to it and sway it will be the short suction hose pipe.
Well take the suction hold, pull it out of the cabinet and place the end into a bottle of RV antifreeze. You will want to double check that any point of water use has been shut off. If it’s not you will waste anti-freeze and spill it all over the place.
Next we can turn the water pump on. It should suck up the antifreeze and shut off when it reaches the set pressure.
Once we have anti-freeze in the system we can grab a bucket to catch the water that will come out of the faucets and shower. Well start in the kitchen.
Well open the hot side, let it run until we have a good stream of antifreeze coming out. Then we’ll do the cold side. Once we have done the kitchen we can repeat the process with the bathrooms, shower, tubs, washer hook up and outdoor kitchen/ faucet.
Once we have run any point of water use and have a good stream of antifreeze coming out. We can go back and remove the suction hose out of the antifreeze bottle and place it back inside the cabinet.
Well also shut the valve off on the suction line and reopen the valve that supplies the water to the pump. That way it’s ready to go in the spring or the next time the RV/ camper is used. Next we can reinstall the draws we removed.
With the draws reinstalled we can re empty the grey water if you let the water go into the drains. Then we can take another gallon of anti-freeze and add a little bit more to each trap to ensure they are protected from freezing.
Some will also go down past the trap and protect the grey water holding tank. We can also add some to the toilet and flush some more down to protect the black water tank.
Next we can grab a rag or some paper towels and wipe up the residue in the sinks, tubs/ showers so that way there isn’t antifreeze sitting in them.
I like to leave a ¼ to a ½ gallon of the leftover antifreeze next to the toilet as they have a tendency to evaporate or leak down. So during storage we can pop in and add to keep the toilet bowl seal from drying out by adding more antifreeze to the toilet.
A few other things to do before the camper is stored would be to remove all food so you don’t attract mice. Also remove clothes, bedding, towels, anything that a mouse could make into a house.
You can also put the bedding and other items into a sealable storage tote to keep mice from getting into them.
You may want to add some mice repellent, They have the packets which I haven’t had good luck with. For me I use pure peppermint oil on a cotton ball and place them throughout the RV/ camper.
For your refrigerator/ freezer they make these door clips that hold the doors open to let air in and out to make sure that they don’t mold up.
This camper has the max air vents installed so we can leave the vents open allowing the air to circulate. Here is the video of installing one – Here.
If your camper isn’t going to be plugged in during winter storage you may want to install a battery disconnect or remove the batteries completely and use a battery tender to keep them charged up.
So with antifreeze throughout the hot and cold water system and those other items done that’s it we have just shown you how to winterize your RV
