So once we had all four tires mounted and balanced we moved onto the interior for a bit. We stripped everything out of the inside all the seats, carpet, seats belts , Headliner everything except the dash. We also had to remove a few mice houses from the back of the car by the rear strut towers as you can see below.
Once we had both mouse houses removed we coated from the top of the rear strut towers down to the floor with POR-15. While the por-15 was drying we shampooed the carpets and seats then set them out in the sun to dry. We also power washed all the plastic parts from the interor. Once the top half of the interior parts and head liner were dry we painted them flat black. They used to be a light blue. We didn’t paint the sun visors or the roof handles as we figured the paint may come off after prolonged use.
While the paint was drying we moved onto making the electric windows work. So we first had to swap the drivers door from the grey hatch onto the white. As the door on the white car had a good size dent in it. After that was done we removed the window crank and then the door panel. We removed all the track and gears for the crank windows . Then we put the wagon track in and electric window motor. We ended up having to cut and adjust the track to get the correct amount of travel to fit the GL doors as they are longer then the ones on a wagon or sedan. While the door panel was off we also took some time to install a set of speakers into the door. We removed the pocket from the front section of the door panel and cut the panel to fit the speaker in. We also had to run the power and ground wires out to the switch and the positive and negative wires to power the speaker. With all that in place we reinstalled the door panel and mounted the switch over the hole where the window crank was to give it a clean look.
With the power windows completed and working we moved onto making the power mirrors work. We swapped the non power mirrors with the power mirrors from the wagon and luckily we found the wiring to connect them under the dash. There was also the plug end to plug in the controls for them. We extended those wires and mounted the controls for them to the right of the shifter on the lower part of the dash. While we were in that area we bought the bezel part to install an aftermarket radio an installed an aftermarket radio with CD, mp3, USB and AUX capabilities. Once we had the mirrors, radio installed we re-installed all the interior parts and pieces. Here’s a picture so you can see what the center console looks like now with a newer radio and mirror controls installed.
Now with most of the interior things done we knew we want to make the car more reliable and give it some more power. So we removed the old engine and decided on installing a newer EJ motor. Here’s a quick video of the original EA81 motor running right before we pulled it. It will be listed on E-bay soon to help offset the cost of the new motor build. Once I find the video of the engine still running in the car the engine will be listed and a link to the auction will be under the video if your in the market for a low mileage EA81 Motor.
EA81 running video (Coming Soon)
We did some measuring and found out we couldn’t just drop in a 2.5 L single cam motor without doing some modifications to the frame rails as the 2.5L was just to wide to fit in. A 2.2L would be close but would fit but like most people we wanted a little more so we decided to go with a Franken motor. Now for those of you that are unfamiliar with a Subaru Franken motor its taking a phase one 2.5L block and putting a pair of 2.2L heads on it. So we used a 1996 Dual over head cam 2.5L block (high mileage) and a set of 1997 dual port exhaust, roller rocker 2.2L heads. We also wanted a little more torque so we also sent out our cams to Delta Camshafts to be reground/ turned into Torque cams (AKA the 200 Series. If they were the pad style heads they would be the 220 series). With the old engine out it was also a good time to swap the engine cross member to the engine cross member from the yellow wagon with the power steering on it. ( Picture Below) Now if your going to run a newer 2.2L or a Franken motor in an older Subaru you will need to make or order an adapter plate to go from the newer engine to transmission bolt pattern to the older transmission bolt pattern in the car so it will match up. You will also need to elongate the holes for the engine mounts as the newer motor mount bolts a slightly further a part. Here is a few pictures of the motor mount holes elongated and the adapter plate installed.
So we ordered a bunch of new parts to rebuild the engine and also sent the cams out to be reground. While we were waiting for all the parts to come in to rebuild/ build the engine. We took that time to install the roof rack mounting points and bars from the yellow wagon we stripped down before. Once we had the factory Subaru roof mounts and bars installed we installed our newly bought Curt Manufacturing cargo rack. Once we had the rack mounted and where we wanted it we moved on to installing our also newly purchased LED light bar. After doing some research on them we went with a 30″ Rigid Industries LED light with a combination of spot and flood light LED’s and mounted it to our roof top cargo carrier. Here’s a picture so you can see how we mounted it to the car and how it changed the look of the car.
Here’s a picture of the car as it sits awaiting it’s new motor to be built/ Finished.
More Of The Story/ Build Coming Soon…