Below is a video on how to replace a Maytag/ Whirlpool thrust bearing, transmission and motor pulley.
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Today we will be showing you how to replace the thrust bearing, transmission pulley and motor pulley on a Maytag washer. This will also work on some whirlpool models as there interchangeable. This will fix a washer that doesn’t agitate drains or spins out poorly or makes noise during use.
To start we can unplug the washer from the power outlet. Once we have the washer unplugged we can shut the valves off that supply the hot and cold water to the washer. With the valves off we can grab a pair of channel lock pliers and a small bucket and disconnect the washer hoses. Use the small bucket to drain the lines so you don’t get water on the floor.
Next we can walk the washer away from the wall and lean it against it so we can get underneath to where the belt and pulleys are. Be sure it’s secure before you reach under the machine. A better idea is to ask or have someone hold it for you.
Once we have the washer leaned back the first thing we need to do is remove the washer belt. To do this we are going to grab the belt next to the transmission pulley and pull downward and rotate the transmission pulley counter clockwise to walk the belt off. Once we have it walked off the transmission pulley we can remove it from the other two pulleys.
Well start with replacing the motor pulley. If you look inside the pulley you will see there are small tabs that lock into a grove on the motor shaft. So we will use a flat screw driver to bend the out of the way. You will want to bend them away from the motor shaft. You might break some off as you bend them out of the way that’s alright. Once we have all the tabs moved out of the way we use a hammer to help remove the pulley from the motor shaft. We can slide the claw part of the hammer behind the pulley and roll the hammer to slide the pulley off.
With the pulley off we can now unpack age the new pulley and slide it onto the shaft with the tabs facing outward or downward. Slide it on as much as you can by hand then you the old pulley and place it against the old pulley and use the hammer to tap it on the rest of the way. With the motor pulley reinstalled we can move onto replacing the transmission pulley and thrust bearing.
To start squeeze and remove the dust cap. With the dust cap off we can now remove the E or C clip. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers or a flat screwdriver. With the E clip off we can now slide the washers and pulley off the shaft. With everything removed from the washer shaft we can grab a rag and clean off the shaft and bottom of the mating surface. Once we have it wiped clean we can unpack age our new thrust bearing and pulley kit. Once open we will need the new thrust bearing and the plastic bushing. Press the plastic bushing onto the new thrust bearing with the nubs facing the same way it should “click” together and stay together.
Once we have them pressed together we can grab the supplied grease and apply it to the flat side of the thrust bearing. With the grease on the thrust bearing we can slide it onto the transmission shaft with the flat side towards the washer and the side with the nubs towards the end of the shaft. Next we can grab the new transmission pulley and apply grease on the inside on the side with the arrows. With that greased we can now slide that onto the transmission shaft and then grab the white cog and slide that onto the shaft and into the transmission pulley. You will need to align it with the splines on the shaft.
You will notice with the kit that it comes with two flat washers. One washer is thinner and one is thicker they are used to adjust transmission slip. You will want to start with the thinner washer. Slide the thinner washer onto the shaft then install the new E clip using a pair of channel lock pliers. With the E clip reinstalled we can now check the transmission slip to ensure we used the correct washer.
To check the transmission slippage we will use the arrow on the cog on the inside which is a reference arrow. Well use the two arrows on the outside of the transmission pulley those will be your minimum and maximum. Well turn the transmission pulley counter clock wise slowly until the transmission engages and starts to turn. Well do these three times to get an accurate reading. Well make sure our reference arrow is between the minimum and maximum arrows. Ours has the correct amount of slippage. If yours doesn’t have the correct amount you will need to swap the washers out until you get the reference arrow between the minimum and maximum arrows.
Once you have the correct amount of transmission slippage we can install the new dust cap. Just push it into the center of the pulley until it clicks in. Once the dust cap is reinstalled we can reinstall the belt. To do this put the belt into the groove on the motor pulley then onto the pump pulley and then walk it onto the transmission pulley spinning it counter clockwise. Once we have the belt on we can spin it and double check that it is in the grooves on all pulleys. Next we can stand the washer back up and walk it back into position. Next reconnect our supply lines and turn on the valves and plug the washer into the outlet. That’s it for replace the thrust bearing, transmission pulley and motor pulley on a Maytag or Whirlpool washing machine.
Thanks for the great video. I have a Whirlpool mav6300aww that does not appear to spin during the spin cycle. I am not sure if that is the only symptom. From my searches, I found that it might be the clutch assembly or the brake assembly. It looks like there is no brake assembly on this model, and I am looking for instructions on how to get at the clutch assembly. Any ideas?
Hello, The top items I would check would be the Lid switch, the belt to make sure it’s not broken, the tension of the belt and then the drive pulley and parts as they are plastic and can become stripped. These could all cause the washer not to spin.
Great video and instructions – thanks! I have this washer and it spins and functions fine, but makes a terrible noise during spinning. I’m thinking it’s bearing. Does the thrust pulley bearing make this noise, or do you think typically this suggests the other bearings on the tub?
Seems like the thrust pulley repair is less about noise and more about operation.
The thrust pulley will make some noise but it will be more of a squeek and more when it’s agitating. If it’s on spin I would say it’s the bearing.
Great information you have provided for the DIY people out there, it has definitely helped me. I thank you! My problem is it seems they no long want to sell only a motor pulley they want you to purchase a new motor with a new motor pulley already installed…which I don’t need. Can you provide the part # for the Maytag MAV6200AWW model motor pulley only? If so I thank you. For now I guess I can use the original but I would like to to the project right with new pulley like you did it in your video.
Thank you. In the first paragraph there is a link to only the pulley that I used on Amazon. Link-> https://amzn.to/2ElErWn Which was Part # 21001950 I think. When I looked up your model # quick it came up with a WP21001108 Link-> https://amzn.to/2LjUN3o but there were a bunch of part numbers out there for these pulleys as they where changed and updated. Just double check to be sure that it will work on your washer and be sure to get the black colored one as that is the newest and updated one versus the original cream colored one. Good luck with getting it back up and running.
the “C”/”E” clip could not be installed with either of the shim washers…there was simply no space. I was successful in installing that clip directly onto the nylon cog. It that going to be a problem long-long term? Or, should i find a thinner steel shim?
There have been a few that I also couldn’t get the shims in as there wasn’t enough space. It did work out that without them in there it was within the 2 marks when it turned the transmission. I had them run it for a while and then rechecked the adjustment to see if we could get the washer/ shim in there. I don’t remember if one of the washers/shims that came with the kit ended up fitting or I grabbed a thinner one off the truck. I think it was one from within the kit.
Your response was timely and much appreciated. I concur with your train of thought. All those points were considered. Additionally, considered making a shim from a small thinner piece of sheet steel.
New issue has arisen. after a dozen loads washed (all medium in size during the shake down period), there is a minor leak somewhere. Fortunately, i purchased a washing machine drain pan that caught all the water…about 1/4″ deep after that dozen loads. I’ll change the pump and the hose with new clamps. Any other possibilities i should explore?